PARIS (AP) — Paris Fashion Week menswear shows geared up a notch Friday, as fashion insiders prepared for Dior’s spectacular afternoon show.

Here are some highlights of spring-summer 2023 shows thus far.

PAUL SMITH LAYERS

A fresh and sensitive wardrobe awaited guests at Paul Smith’s spring show in the southeast of Paris.

Layering and optical plays were the themes of the season, in looks that built on the British sartorial master’s bread-and-butter of color, florals and suited looks.

A beautiful silver coat ensemble, loose and flowing, cut a trendy preppy vibe with its suit shorts that led the eye down to sock and suede loafers.

Elsewhere, it was the realm of gentle optical illusion in patterning that gave several ensembles a kinesis.

A granite-colored tunic shirt was constructed in grooved fabric that rippled down in zigzags that changed shape as the model walked.

JUNYA WATANABE MAKES A STATEMENT OF DENIM

The Japanese fashion designer — a protege of iconic Comme des Garcons couturier Rei Kawakubo — put out an urban, yet soft, display for his eponymous brand Friday.

At the heart of Junya Watababe’s designs is a concept called “Monozukiri,” which means literally “production” or “manufacturing” in Japanese and for him has come to comprise a know-how of cutting edge techniques to make clothes.

Here for spring, contrasting prints, patterns and textures created visual tensions, while distressed jeans with a bias cut, replete with colorful appliqued patches, to give the collection some fun.

Logos of Coca-Cola and images of hamburgers on denim jeans made for a comment on the capitalistic nature of the world — and the fashion industry itself — in a nice moment of introspection.

There were plenty of interesting design twists: One jean jacket in Japanese denim had a regal stiffness, which nicely contrasting with the shabbiness of one of its breast pockets being missing.